A reflection on the walk in the gardens: I don’t know what a Principessa signifies, but it must be related to the Latin princeps- chief of tribe. However in Principessa Giulia I discerned beneficent royalty: grace, knowledge - especially botanical and some engineering, passion and determination to restore the depredations in way true to history but adopting modernity in amenities.The ancient hunting lodge (which we were told was for hunting with nets. And fell into disuse because it required three beaters and ceased to be economic), will be converted into another luxury suite during the restoration.
The first walk was scheduled after a coffee break, 5+k (the manager always underestimates distance) with a 500m + rise. Most of the rise was on a well kept paved military road but the installations seen (bunkers) could have belonged to defensive works for either of the big 20th century wars. Nothing recent. The mountain top views of the Adriatic were partially obscured by haze, but the hang gliders were exciting. The descent was on loose gravel and a bit treacherous for my orthopaedic shoes, and a final 300m ascent back to the road did something to my right knee.
The bus descended steeply to get close to the shore at Portonovo, and we walked past a duck filled lagoon to get to our lunch stop, which had absolute frontage a large-pebble beach and fishermen’s launching point. The starter was suitably Adriatic, chopped octopus, fresh anchovies and other things that can be observed:
This was followed next, and importantly by a large bowl of smallish (6cm we were assured) local wild mussels. These are gathered from submerged rocks by divers with an oxygen line to the boat at depth of 3 - 10 metres, between April- September, and ours were almost the last of the season. The autumn-winter sea then becomes too wild and water too turbid.
The last 2 boats of the season
Looking in the other direction from our restaurant seat. The owner greeted users of an inflatable by blowing through a conch shell with a sounder loud as fog horn.
After lunch we had a long (translated) conversation with a senior fisherman from the co-operative. It appears the wild mussels grow only in this bay because only it has appropriate underwater rocks, and supply is sold locally. It is a traditional cottage industry, which gives meagre returns, and although he did not admit it the catch is harvested young and if left unmolested would over several years grow on twice or perhaps three times the size.
In winter they fish for various molluscs. I would have liked a detailed chat about the workings of the co-op (a past specialty of mine) but this was not the time or place.
The bus conveyed us on to Castelfdardo, where we visited Garifoli Winery, a big time international business. Here too minor snacks were supplied, which we wisely resisted. The main grape is Verdicchio, a white endemic to this mini- region, and we introduced to various styles- spumante, young and aged. This being our third Martin Randall tour led byMarc Millon, I can now observe his strategy, a rollicking good time spent at family wineries, and then the visit to the big pro, which will be instructive but restrained.
The bus took us to our Recanati hotel situated on a mountain-top with proverbial breathtaking views of the countryside. This accommodation was up to date modern capital city 4 star, in contrast to the faded glory of our previous palazzo.
Half of the view from our 1st floor window.
Wineries, walking...you are doing it all!
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