M.R. Wine, Walks, & Art in Alsace

Our tour, organised by Martin Randall Travel, started for us by a walk to Domaine Viticole de la Ville de Colmar, where just before 4.30pm we joined up with the 9 others, the manager and the cultural guide who had travelled from St Pancras by Euorostar that morning. The vineyard and winery really is owned by the Ville. 

 

Our hostess gave an extended talk on the vineyard (to be harvested by hand starting Monday), the effects of climate change on wine making, and their approach to the task. We then had a tasting of the main 3 white and 1 red varieties they produce. We noticed that they also make sparkling, called crémant for regulatory reasons. Although only a small maker they comply with regulations to produce "grand cru" label wines.

On adjournment to our hotel for dinner the main course was Baeckaoffe, which we were told is an Alsacien casserole of mutton, pork, beef and potatoes.

On Saturday our coach took us to one of the many postcard pretty villages, Rosheim, about 60k up the road. 

 

A local guide gave us a thorough introduction to the Romanesque church of Saintes Pierre et Paul. It had been somewhat iconoclasted (my newly minted word of the day) during the French Revolution. Anything religious looking got smashed but other icons survived. In my photo of the apse the Angel symbol  has been destroyed, but the other 3 evangelist icons remain. Similarly the tympani have been chiselled off, and the great west entrance is no longer used.

 

We then went for a 5k walk through the vineyards to Obernai. This commenced with a vigorous 13% ascent into the Vosges foothills that quickly sorted the sheep from the mountain goats.

Obernai boasts full employment from agricultural, industrial and tourist trade. Another post card picture town.

 

There is another church of Saintes Peter and Paul, and during our visit there was a hot market in weddings: four were performed by law in the hôtel de Ville by Madame la Maire, and at least one party then proceeded to the Saintes for a nuptial mass. One bride arrived by horse and buggy, another was in a snappy red sports coupé. We listened to a fine moderate sized organ and tenor practising: there was another much larger organ at the west end of the church.

On to another wine tasting,  Vins Robert Blanck, a traditional producer using barrels only. Since tannin is not necessary for Alsacien whites, the white

barrels can be kept indefinitely. Some are very old indeed, with carved fronts:

 

 

The day ended with a 3 course dinner at a fish restaurant (fresh water fish).