Abbey Frescoes

Reference preceding blogs, here are some of the frescoes from the Cistercian abbey church

Recanati

Although we had 2 nights in the Recanati hotel  there was time only for a short walk on the second evening. It is located in the old area with narrow curved  medieval streets, but handsome civic structures.

Near Urbisagalia

The day started with a drive to the Abbazia di Fiastra  (Cistercian) we began a 7km walk in the Riserva Naturale and into the surrounding hills.  T opted out of the walk because of a sore knee but spent a happy couple of hours in the very beautiful surrounds of the abbey.  Before leaving the abbey we looked  inside and found some wonderful frescos.  

The views were spectacular and the walk, while not as challenging because of the topography as yesterday, was challenging because there was less shade and more exposure to sun....but it was worth it.  The hills in this area are undulating and very picturesque as most of it is farmland used for mixed farming so the colours are varied and very beautiful.  

To Recanati

A reflection on the walk in the gardens: I don’t know what a Principessa signifies, but it must be related to the Latin princeps- chief of tribe. However in Principessa Giulia I discerned beneficent royalty: grace, knowledge - especially botanical and some engineering, passion and determination to restore the depredations in way true to history but adopting modernity in amenities.The ancient hunting lodge (which we were told was for hunting with nets.  And fell into disuse because it required three beaters and ceased to be economic), will be converted into another luxury suite during the restoration.

Next day the bus took us onwards 114 km to Badia di San Pietro.

The first walk was scheduled after a coffee break, 5+k (the manager always underestimates distance) with a 500m + rise. Most of the rise was on a well kept paved military road but the installations seen (bunkers) could have belonged to defensive works for either of the big 20th century wars. Nothing recent. The mountain top views of the Adriatic were partially  obscured by haze, but the hang gliders were exciting. The descent was on loose gravel and a bit treacherous for my orthopaedic shoes, and a final 300m ascent back to the road did something to my right knee.

The bus descended steeply to get close to the shore at Portonovo, and we walked past a duck filled lagoon to get to our lunch stop, which had absolute frontage a large-pebble beach and fishermen’s launching point. The starter was suitably Adriatic, chopped octopus, fresh anchovies and other things that can be observed:

This was followed next, and importantly by a large bowl of smallish (6cm we were assured) local wild mussels. These are gathered from submerged rocks by  divers with an oxygen line to the boat at depth of 3 - 10 metres, between April- September, and ours were almost the last of the season. The autumn-winter sea then becomes too wild and water too turbid.

The last 2 boats of the season

Looking in the other direction from our restaurant seat. The owner greeted users of an inflatable by blowing through a conch shell with a sounder loud as fog horn.

After lunch we had a long (translated) conversation with a senior fisherman from the co-operative. It appears the wild mussels grow only in this bay because only it has appropriate underwater rocks, and supply is sold locally. It is a traditional cottage industry, which gives meagre returns, and although he did not admit it the catch is harvested young and if left unmolested would over several years grow on twice or perhaps three times the size.

In winter they fish for various molluscs. I would have liked a detailed chat about the workings of the co-op (a past specialty of mine) but this was not the time or place.

The bus conveyed us on to Castelfdardo, where we visited Garifoli Winery, a big time international business. Here too minor snacks were supplied, which we wisely resisted. The main grape is Verdicchio, a white endemic to this mini- region, and we introduced to various styles- spumante, young and aged. This being our third Martin Randall tour led byMarc Millon,  I can now observe his strategy, a rollicking good time spent  at family wineries, and then the  visit to the big pro, which will be instructive but restrained.

The bus took us to our Recanati hotel situated on a mountain-top with proverbial breathtaking views of the countryside. This accommodation was up to date  modern capital city 4 star, in contrast to the faded glory of our previous palazzo.

Half of the view from our 1st floor window.

Ascoli Piceno III

Our bus took us 17k to Castel di Lama. Here Principessa Giulia Panichi Pignatelli hosted a cooking demonstration, personally guided us around the beautiful gardens- pointing out with enthusiasm many flourishing specimens including cycads and several fine Pawlonia trees, and then provided a wonderful lunch which we had witnessed in preparation. It seems that the Castel had recently been used as a luxury resort until severely damaged by an earthquake in 2016. Repairs have commenced but there is a long way to go.

After lunch a further 17km bus ride brought us to San Savino di Ripatransone for a wine tasting at Tenuti Cocci Grifoni.  In addition to their very good wines a procession of plates of food appeared culminating in large servings of an excellent dish of spiced green Italian Umbria lentils. This generous hospitality was verging on the overwhelming considering the fulsome lunch we had come from and a dinner in prospect that we had arranged with Marc our tour leader. We had a walk through the vineyard with harvest processing in full swing.

On return to our hotel we settled for light antipasti and a stroll back through the well lit town.

Ascoli Piceno II

AP traces its settlement history to pre-Roman times, but Rome soon imposed itself after its own establishment. To the casual visitor none of pre-Roman and not much Roman is visible, except for remains of an amphitheatre as we came in, and some archeology below ground in a public building. The medieval and post-medieval old town is very attractive, and has little evidence of major tourist spoliation. 

It became part of the Papal States, the Franciscans had much the better of the F.v Benedictine rivalry with a huge monastery and church in the middle of town goading the bishop into an unnecessary cathedral enlargement of the cathedral lest the there be confusion about the site of the ecclesiastical power base.

This is the site of our second dinner- the old post office.

We were supposed to have independent lunch on day 2 after a tasting of olive oils and demonstration of how to make the signature meat stuffed olives. The host felt that the tasting would be improved by a few glasses of white wine and several courses of antipasti and pasta. After about two and half hours of hospitality there unfortunately was neither time nor room for lunch.

At 3pm we set out for a visit to the Pinoteca. There was a modest but impressive collection of works.

Ascoli Piceno

 Rome landing 2.15pm .We at last gained the bus and a bottle of cool water. Thence  240 km north to the Adriatic that delivered us to our salubrious palazzo hotel a little after 7pm.

The irritations of a long days’ journey disappeared into a marvellous meal at a wonderful restaurant. The Tastes of Le Marche had begun.

Menus are probably boring but this first night we had

Appetiser of meat stuffed olives deep fried in grain batter.

1 red wild apple ravioli with marscapone walnut, Parmesan and Granny Smith fondant

2 slow cooked lamb  leg ,puréed courgettes crispy vegetables

3chocolate marscapone and cherries

Prosecco and 3 matching wines, all outstanding several  grape varieties new to me including a red dessert wine which may have included cherries.