Picasso Museum

We made two visits in successive years to Paris some time ago, and stayed in an apartment opposite the Picasso Museum. In both years it was closed for renovation. Now it is open and a visit was richly rewarding, as it is staging a “masterpiece”  exhibition with extra works on loan. 

Picasso’s quirkiness is exemplified in a light pendant in an otherwise boring ceiling:

And in his portrait of three women in his life

And something from his bestiary

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We also enjoyed watching a film of the ballet Parade, for which Picasso designed the costumes, music by Satie and choreography by Cocteau

Nearly half a day’s enjoyment here.

Somme Battlefields

Since it’s 2018 and near the centenary of the Australian Monash-led successes we looked for a guide. Our pick was Victor Piuk, because we found him on the web together with Tim Fischer. 

At 8.45 Vic met us at Arras station and accompanied us throughout  the area with extensive commentary until we reached the new Sir John Monash Centre , which has a self- guiding system for about an hour and half. At the end of the tour Vic took us to meet our 5.45 train at Longeau. Back in Paris at  7.00pm it was a long but worthwhile day, to get some slight acquaintance with the remaking of Europe (and setting it up for another war) as well as fashioning of Australia that occurred here 100 years ago. Some images of what the area is like now:

Inside the memorial to 72000 unknown dead at Thiepval

Contrasting left (French) and right  (British Empire) grave styles in military order. But Everyone gets a cross unless known not be Christian.

Thiepval monument

Surveying a battlefield 




W and Vic at theAustralian National Memorial at Villers-Bretonneux 

We also visited the Ulster Memorial with its copy of a Northern Irish tower, the Newfoundland memorial with a moose, and a German cemetery- we were told that Germans have not the same emphasis on memorial graves as the allies.

An image from my youth in the early 60s. At Clovelly parish church Pozières veterans gathered annually to sing O valiant hearts who to your glory came through dust of conflict and through battle flame: Tranquil you lie, your knightly virtue proved, Your memory hallowed in the land you loved. 

All you had hoped for, all you had, you gave, To save mankind—yourselves you scorned to save.

Showery Tuesday

Unexpectedly we found precipitation, and decided to do a walking exploration of the covered arcades (galeries) of Paris. As in Melbourne some of these are time capsules from the nineteenth century. In spite of copious web instructions some were not easy to find, and one seemed to have died.

Along the way we saw that at least one notary public seems to have flourishing business

And the press has preserved a memory of les jours de gloire of the evening papers .

A selection of sights from the galeries:

An ad for a nearby wax museum

Posters

Books

Space
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Cave aux vins

Jewellery of the crabby kind

Arnhem Land Art

Bon voyage for family

So the demands of youth will not be denied.

The whole family made it to the Tour Eiffel, and (minus grandparents who were too blasé about the view to part with the euros) ascended to the second level.

We watched from up the hill.

What can’t be seen in picture is security works at the base since we were last here. Much ugly fencing now divides the tourist entrance from the base and makes an ugly intrusion into that part of the Champ de Mars. 

What was new to us on the way was the handsome Promenade d’Australie along the river bank, headed of course by a bronze of La Pérouse who seems to be attempting that look of hauteur française.

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The left bank around here is also a pleasing tribute to water and construction geometry.

On Monday 3rd there was a happy morning for three generations of males, with  men talk on various issues of life from three centipedes to the last cavalry charge against machine guns at Beersheba, punctuated by suitable exercise for one of us.

After lunch the overseas family set out in style to return to a new school for one, a new class for another, and the continuation of the American way for all

What do children want first time in Paris?

One answer that should have been anticipated but wasn’t is , to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower. Since the wish was unexpected, fulfilment at no notice on a Saturday is mission impossible . Turns out that this  wish needs advance booking. So pass, and we make a leisurely start late morning and address the next wish, Notre Dame. A longish walk for small feet . Here entrance is libre and the queue short. 

We were last inside that cathedral in 1973. Internally the most majestic sight is the stained glass. Outside my favourite works are the tympana above each grand door...

Portail Sainte Anne (Wikipedia commons)

We promised a taste of the world’s best ice cream (Berthillon) on Ile Saint Louis, but again failed to plumb the depths of a child view of the world. The ice cream flavours were too strong and failed to impress...

Berthillon  (Marie Claire)

The next desire was a return to Jardin Nelson Mandela , so we headed back via the pool outside Pompidou, and retired for the afternoon.

More on Friday

Here is a Google file picture of the pendulum

On returning from the Musée we passed by 51 rue Montmorency, where the oldest in Paris stands.

Wikipedia :The house of Nicolas Flamel, which was built in 1407 by Nicolas Flamel himself still stands, the oldest stone house in Paris, at 51 rue de Montmorency; the ground floor, always a tavern, currently houses the Auberge Nicolas Flamel. Nicolas Flamel, a scrivener and manuscript-seller who developed a reputation as an alchemist, claimed that he made the Philosopher's Stone which turns lead into gold, and that he and his wife Pernelle achieved immortality. Engraved images were discovered during recent works on this house.
We sought out the house out because M.Flamel is said to be the model for Prof Dumbledore .

After a baguette lunch back in the apartment it was a rest afternoon for grandparents but Les Enfants went to Jardin Nelson Mandela at Les Halles, where there are hourly supervised activities (Les aventures).  No admission unless aged 7-11, and no child may stay for more than one consecutive hour. The participants gave it a favourable review. The grownups roamed enviously outside the border fence peering through the jungle of greenery partially hiding what was going on in the sequestered paradise.

Adventure prop in Jardin Nelson Mandela Google photo.
 

August in Paris en famille

A comfortable full day’s journey Wednesday and Thursday delivered us to Charles de Gaulle Paris where we after a modest interval we had a rendezvous with the family flying west after summer, and a van arranged by our host efficiently carried us to our apartment in the Montorgueil district where a greeter was waiting to initiate us to the third floor abode. A quick shopping trip to the multitude of trendy food places in our street and it’s extension, rue Montorgueil  fixed our dinner a la maison. A strong commendation for the owner and her association welcome2france.

On Friday a leisurely start led to stroll to the Musée des Arts et Metiers. After an introduction to the first  model of the Statue of Liberty, outside, the youngest member of the group determined that the collection was beyond his range of interests.

 The museum is proud of its links and includes another model inside as well as small scale models of construction of the main item as a gift to USA.

This was our first visit to the museum, and we were impressed with the high quality of exhibits and the logic of their arrangement .

There is something humorous in the contrast between a grand 19th century interior and a grand early 20th century flying machine.

Our tour concluded with demonstration of the operation of a Focault’s Pendulum suspended from the ceiling of a former gothic church that now forms part of the Museum