Marilyn in Bendigo

Bendigo's profile has been vastly magnified by the transient arrival of Marilyn, seen here standing posed balanced on a park railing.

Bendigo is an enjoyable place in autumn. We made our overnight way via Heathcote, where we paused to sample some of the local and not so local wines. In fact the outlet of M.Chapoutier led us to taste and buy his shiraz offerings  from the Victorian Pyrenees (Shay's Flat) and the Rhône (Crozes-Hermitage). He does have a Bendigo vineyard at Jasper Hill but those farflung items, knowledgeably displayed and discussed, attracted us most. We did also buy some local provenance bottles from a hub outlet for Wild Duck Estate, Downing Estate, and Hennings.

Our overnight stay was spent at Langley Hall,  the residence of the first bishop of Bendigo, a stately home which has also been a sometime orphanage.

  The "chapel room" was very large and comfortable and breakfast was traditional and generous.

Our dinner was taken at Masons of Bendigo, setting a fine food standard.






The Marilyn exhibition at the Art Gallery was much more than a collation of her film wardrobe and film clips: it was a 3D biography of a talented thespian who was both overvalued for the obvious and undervalued for her potential. A couple of her books showed an unexpected taste in reading about serious life matters. It gave us sympathy for the person, a wish to learn more about her, and regret that she did not grow old. The curator does not exaggerate in saying "This comprehensive exhibition brings together authentic artefacts, clothing and other objects belonging to, or worn by Marilyn. More than 20 original film costumes from some of Marilyn’s greatest films such as Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, How to Marry a Millionaire and Love Nest feature alongside numerous dresses and accessories from Marilyn’s personal wardrobe."

 We took the back roads home through some scorched and parched country and down the Burke & Wills Track to Granite Hills estate in the Macedon Ranges. A lengthy sojourn with the self-effacing and produce boosting winemaker Gordon Knight, a favourite source of ours we rarely visit, caused our home wine stock to be declared full for quite some time to come.

Alexandra Fountain, named for Alexandra, Princess of Wales whose sons, Princes Albert and George, attended the opening ceremony on 5 July 1881

Turandot on the Habour and a handful other pleasant delights

Handa Opera on the harbour was the main purpose of a few days in Sydney. Appropriately for a story set in Peking, the director and choreographer is, according to the official blurb, "a child of the Cultural Revolution, Chen Shi-Zheng grew up in a China where cruelty and beauty coexisted. Taken in by a Chinese opera troupe, he grew up surrounded by music, but witnessed great suffering. It’s a duality he finds utterly compelling, and a juxtaposition that ties in perfectly with the ice-hearted, impossibly beautiful princess at the heart of Puccini's Turandot."  A more engaging voice than Princess Turandot was the slave girl Liù, sung by Hyeseoung Kwon, who "has been a soloist for Carmina Burana with Melbourne Symphony Orchestra, Missa Solemnis with Sydney Philharmonia, Opera in the Vineyards, Stanthorpe, and Mozart’s Requiem".

But there's really only one big number in the opera, sung competently on our night by Ricardo 
Massi, Calàf's Nessan Dorma, who has also sung this role in Stockholm 2013 and Bregenz Austria 2015. Fireworks ad lib...

       

The open air set is magnificent, with a fire breathing dragon the flames from whose mouth can certainly be felt by us halfway up the seating rows

 We spent the day before the evening with our co-travellers on the board walk from Bronte Beach to Coogee. Always rewarding.



 We discovered a four good places to eat during our stay:

For late dinner on arrival, Postales
 Spanish Restaurant in the GPO








Authentic salaryman Japanese in the Westfield Market St food hall, unlike anything in Melbourne:

IPPUDO-  founded in 1985 in Japan’s ramen capital of Hakata. With over 80 stores in Japan, IPPUDO is now spreading throughout the world its authentic ramen. After opening its first international outlet in New York in 2008, IPPUDO is now present in Australia, Korea, Singapore, Malaysia, China, Taiwan and the United Kingdom.   

On the recommendation of our hotel concierge we walked down Castlereagh St for breakfast to bustling (their website says "hustle") and efficient Pablo & Rustys. Excellent filter coffee and a generous serving of hearty delicious food.
 "'A range of single origins and filter coffee are always available, alongside outstanding fare focussing on local and seasonal produce. No table reservations"  Take away coffee too,  but mind the queue.








We also took further advantage of our hard won and compulsorily temporary Seniors OPAL Gold card to use the bus to travel to Birkenhead Point to catch up with old friends for lunch. A friendly suburban place where the food, service, and view and company was  all that could be asked.

Nankeen Night-Heron

A new avian visitor hoping for a fish feed dropped in at dusk the other evening. The bistro was only open for casual drinks...

 

Nycticorax caledonicus (Ardeidae) was wearing three white "nuptial" breeding  plumes of fine size. We hope it was merely stopping off from its waterside home on its way to the wedding, since birdlife Australia marks its conservation status in Victoria as "vulnerable".

Ladies in Black was the Good(e)s

This was, for me, an unexpected treat.  

Everybody has been commending the 1950s costumes and easy listening songs set in the fictional Sydney Department Store Goodes (Could have been Farmers?) produced by the  MTC .  W was keen to go, after various strong recommendations.  

For me the nostalgia went deeper.


 

 The heroine Lesley/Lisa was cast as a Sydney contemporary of mine, did similar classic latin/french subjects to me at leaving certificate level, and there were skirts with multiple petticoats I recall from mid50s church hall dances.  No gypsy tap or other more twirly trad dances were on offer in the play but the mind’s eye was prompted to recreate.

Lisa's  father spoke disparagingly about subjects such as university education, and “refos” in the neighbourhood, evoking strong paternal memories.  

 

It is no surprise that Madeleine St John, author of Women in Black, the novel on which the play is based, is also a contemporary of Clive James and Germaine Greer.  I think Clive would love it; and Germaine’s reaction would be interesting too.  Madeleine was a daughter of leading QC and distinguished parliamentary dissenter Edward St John (described in his obituary as "a modern Pilgrim") who had nothing in common with the father in this story, so not much autobiography evident here.

The story themes faithfully depict a long departed culture of gender mores to which the 60s  gave fatal blows and which came to a general quietus at the close of the century after long illness, but still survive in pockets of Sydney.

A delightful diversion heavily sold out – I hope it comes back again in a mainline theatre production.

Photos from MTC gallery

Lord Howe Island

 

 The flight to and from Lord Howe Island is iffy because the landing strip is modest and guard by clouds wind and landscape, and no ground control: Pilots must actually must visually fly in.  Our flight to the island was delayed three hours waiting on clouds to clear (there are some electronic communications with the island to get a visual on weather). Unfortunately when we at last arrived in the vicinity the clouds had regathered and the pilot missed 2 attempts before getting down on the 3rd and last try. Waiting passengers on the island were disappointed as the pilot declined to take off until the morrow. Several flights had been cancelled over the weekend. We had no trouble leaving on the following weekend.

Lord Howe offers a rest from cell phones, and rations satellite internet access and newspapers. TV is available if necessary.

Lord Howe Island is good for walks, and migratory birds (we farewelled some waders that declined to photographed on their departure for the Russian arctic);  the mutton birds were not at home, but terns had come to raise chicks as had some swallows. A miniature woodhen

equivalent of a kiwi is unique.

Food at our lodge was rich and generous. The water was warm, the fish friendly, and from a glass bottom boat the coral the giant rays and giant green turtles and various other under water denizens exciting.

 The landscape is idyllic.

Sydney North Head

Memorial walk Google photo

Our entitlement to travel all day in Sydney on public transport for $2.50 is to be revoked on 31 December 2015, as the new electronic ticketing system, Opal, will not provide a concession for interstate seniors, at least for now:"FAQ 15 We are currently considering Opal and other ticketing options for interstate seniors and will provide more information in the coming months."

Possibly our last cheap Sydney ride took us by ferry and bus to North Head. Harbour views, wildflowers, and an apparent rabbit sanctuary.
The old Quarantine Station is now available for tourist accommodation.

www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

Spring Northward

We have long planned some Spring days away in the north.
For the airport trip we decided to try Uber, allowing ourselves plenty of time. Unnecessary, since a car was immediately located and reached our home in 10 minutes. The sparkly clean and new to the owner Camry was driven by a courteous Ethiopian almost as new to Uber as we are , though he had a couple of years cab experience. He didn't have an e-tag yet so we travelled via Bell St. He was cautious dropping us as he said if the traffic wardens identify an Uber car they levy a fine. The journey was pleasant. We received a very detailed bill by email with the fare based on precise distance and time.

Qantas was also having a good day. The plane pushed back a few seconds ahead of schedule and throttled its engines for descent into Sydney after less than 45 minutes in the air. I wondered if we were being diverted to Canberra! We landed 20 minutes ahead of schedule.
In Sydney Sheraton on the Park were either using their usual enthusiasm or were specially keen to see us- well, we are staying 3 nights at the fulsome Spring rates. Although we are already in the Starwood preferred guest register Reception asked us if there was a special reason for our stay, and on an affirmative answer immediately accorded us free wifi (still a  privilege in Australian city hotels) and an introduction letter for a glass of sparkling in the bar. Later there was a handwritten note from Reception with a complimentary full breakfast voucher, and 10 minutes later another knock on the door delivered a letter of greetings from the Manager with a bottle of Red.

We walked around Barangaroo. While some of the foreshore is landscaped with sandstone cubes, we also  wanted to see if the Utopia TV satire had exaggerated its references to developments (it hadn't- most of the area looks as if it will be packed to the literal rafters with apartments and other accoutrements of civilisation.

We had dinner at Nick's, a casual fish place on Darling Harbour recommended by our concierge.

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